 |
|
|
|
|
Home Page
> Aromatherapy Article Archive > Aromatic
Blending
 |
|
| Fragrance testing
strips used to evaluate the aroma. |
|
|
|
Aromatic blending for the sheer pleasure
of the aroma is a combination of creativity and science. When using a
blend created primarily for its fragrance, therapeutic benefit can also
occur. The focus of the blend, however, is on the final aroma, not its
therapeutic properties.
Safety precautions should be followed for any type of
blending, including for aromatic blending. For instance, you would still
want to be extremely careful when using Bergamot because of its phototoxic
properties and still avoid using all hazardous oils and all oils that
are contraindicated for conditions that you have.
Traditional perfumers that work for the famous fragrance
houses study for years to master the art and science of perfumery blending.
The perfumer’s standard repertoire consists of essential oils but
also of synthesized chemicals that mimic the constituents (chemicals)
of essential oils and other natural ingredients. Perfumers use synthesized
chemicals and chemicals extracted from essential oils because they are
often cheaper than using pure essential oils and because the chemicals
are standardized and will be more consistent in aroma. If you can find
a copy, The Science and Art of Perfumery by Edward Sagarin (copyright
1945) is a fascinating book that provides insight into the history and
science of perfumery.
In aromatherapy blending, only natural ingredients such
as essential oils, absolutes, CO2s, grain alcohol, carrier oils, herbs
and water are used. Because aromatherapy blending requires and benefits
from the use of unsynthesized chemicals, you shouldn’t have high
expectations for perfectly duplicating your favorite commercial fragrances.
Blending Basics
Essential oils can be categorized into broad groups
based on their aromas. An example categorical system is as follows:
- Floral
(i.e. Lavender, Neroli, Jasmine)
- Woodsy
(i.e. Pine, Cedar)
- Earthy
(i.e. Oakmoss, Vetiver, Patchouli)
- Herbaceous
(i.e. Marjoram, Rosemary, Basil)
- Minty
(i.e. Peppermint, Spearmint)
- Medicinal/Camphorous
(i.e. Eucalyptus, Cajuput, Tea Tree)
- Spicy
(i.e. Nutmeg, Clove, Cinnamon)
- Oriental
(i.e. Ginger, Patchouli)
- Citrus
(i.e. Orange, Lemon, Lime)
Oils in the same category generally blend well together.
I hesitate specifying that particular categories blend well with other
specific categories because it can limit your creativity and experimentation.
Additionally, there are always exceptions. But to get you started, below
are some categories that generally blend well together:
- Florals blend well with spicy, citrusy and woodsy
oils.
- Woodsy oils generally blend well with all categories.
- Spicy and oriental oils blend well with florals,
oriental and citrus oils. Be careful not to overpower the blend with
the spicy or oriental oils.
- Minty oils blend well with citrus, woodsy,
herbaceous and earthy oils.
Harmonizing Your Blend
Have you ever noticed that a fragrance smells differently
after several hours than when you first apply it? Some essential oils
evaporate more quickly than others. As the oils in a blend evaporate,
the aroma will change to reflect the aroma of the remaining oils.
Using the analogy of a musical scale, oils that evaporate
the quickest, usually within 1-2 hours, are called “top notes.”
Oils that evaporate with 2-4 hours are considered “middle notes.”
Oils that take the longest time to evaporate are referred to as “base
notes.” Some base notes can take several days to evaporate! Edward
Sagarin credits Septimus Piesse with this analogy that has been used by
many perfumers:
“Another contribution to the field of odor classification
was made by the famous perfumer and perfume historian, Septimus Piesse.
This unique figure in the history of the science created what he called
an “odophone.” the odors were like sounds, he pointed out,
and a scale could be created going from the first or lowest note, the
heavy smell to the last or highest note, the sharp smell. In between
there was an ascending ladder. Each odor note corresponded to a key
on his odophone, and in the creation of a happy mixture of many different
odors, which we call a “bouquet” and which every finished
perfume must be, the creator seeks not only to hit the right notes,
but to strike those notes which go with one another. His perfume must
not be out of tune.” [Edward Sagarin, The Science and Art of Perfumery
(New York, NY: McGraw-Hill, 1945), 145.]
Below is a chart of commonly available oils based
on their common classification:
Blending does not have hard and fast rules that must
be followed to create that wonderful blend that you’ll love for a
lifetime. The lack of limits and restrictions is what makes perfumery
an art form. Having said that, a few tips will help get you off to a fine
start:
Tips
- When creating a new blend, start out small with a total number of
drops of either 5, 10, 20 or 25 drops. 25 drops should be the most that
you start with. By starting small, you waste less oil in your blending
experiments.
- Start creating your blend by only using essential oils, absolutes
or CO2s. After you have designed the blend, then you can dilute it by
adding carrier oils, alcohol, etc. If you hate the blend you created,
you have then not wasted any carrier oils or alcohol.
- Keep a notebook that lists each oil that you used with the number
of drops used for each oil. When the creative juices flow, it is easy
to get carried away and later forget the exact recipe for your blend;
one drop too much or too little of even one oil can drastically change
the aroma of your blend. When you find that perfect blend, you want
to be able to reduplicate it, and it’s near impossible if you didn’t
take notes! If you are especially ambitious, it’s also a wise idea
to note the vendor name of the oil that you used as the aroma and quality
of oils do vary between vendors (even with the same vendor, the aroma
of oils can vary from batch to batch, due to crop fluctuations and resourcing).
- To store your beautiful creations, perfume sample bottles and 2ml
amber “shortie” bottles are very inexpensive and can often
be purchased from aromatherapy vendors and glass bottle companies.
- Be sure to label your blends clearly. If you don’t have enough
room to specify exactly what your blend is, label it with a number that
corresponds to a number in your notebook.
- Start off your blending experiments by creating blends that are made
up in the following ratio (you do not have to be exact – this is
just a guideline to get you started): 30% of the oils are top notes,
50% are middle notes, and 20% are base notes. See the chart above to
find out what oils belong to each category.
- Some oils are much stronger than others, especially the absolutes
and CO2s. Study oils you wish to use in a given blend and observe the
oils that have the strongest aromas. Unless you want those oils to dominate
the blend, you will want to use dramatically less of the stronger oils
in your blend.
- To learn more about the strength of oils, it is useful to experiment.
Begin by adding one drop of a selected essential oil to 4 drops carrier
oil. This will result in a 20% dilution. Smell it and study the aroma.
To obtain a 10% dilution, add 5 more drops of carrier oil. Smell it,
study the aroma again, then repeat as desired. This can help educate
you on the characteristics and strengths of each essential oil at various
dilution ratios.
- After creating your blend, allow it to sit for a few days before deciding
if you love or hate it. The constituents (natural chemicals) contained
within the oils will get cozy with each other and the aroma can change,
usually rounding out a bit.
Recipes
Carrier Oil Base Perfume
- 15-25 drops of your perfume blend
- 1 tablespoon of Jojoba carrier oil (sweet almond or apricot kernel
carrier oil may be substituted)
Directions: Blend all oils together well and
store in an airtight dark-colored glass container. Dab a drop onto your
pulse points. Please note that this blend has a heavy concentration
of essential oils and is meant to be used sparingly. As with any new
oils and blends that you use, you must check all safety data for the
oils in your blend and do a skin patch test prior to using.
Alcohol/Water Base Perfume
- 4 1/4 teaspoons Vodka
- 1 1/2 teaspoons Distilled Water
- 60 drops of your perfume blend
Directions: Blend all ingredients well and
store in an airtight 1 ounce dark-colored glass container. Let sit for
two weeks, shaking the bottle 1-3 times daily (more often is better)
to mix the oils. After two weeks has passed, filter the perfume through
a coffee filter and rebottle (using the same bottle is fine). As with
any blends that you use, you must check all safety data for the oils
in your blend and do a skin patch test prior to using.
Cologne
- 4 1/2 teaspoons Vodka
- 2 teaspoons Distilled Water
- 30 drops of your perfume blend
Directions: Blend all ingredients well and store in an airtight
1 ounce dark-colored glass container. Let sit for two weeks, shaking
the bottle 1-3 times daily (more often is better) to mix the oils.
After two weeks has passed, filter the cologne through a coffee
filter and rebottle into a one-ounce, fine-mist sprayer bottle.
As with any blends that you use, you must check all safety data
for the oils in your blend and do a skin patch test prior to using.
This makes only a one-ounce quantity so that you can try your cologne
to see if you like it or want any changes to it before making a
larger quantity.
Body Splash
- 4 1/2 teaspoons Vodka
- 2 teaspoons Distilled Water
- 18 drops of your perfume blend
Directions: Blend all ingredients well and
store in an airtight 1 ounce dark-colored glass container. Let sit for
two weeks, shaking the bottle 1-3 times daily (more often is better)
to mix the oils. After two weeks has passed, filter the body splash
through a coffee filter and rebottle into a one-ounce, fine-mist sprayer
bottle.. As with any blends that you use, you must check all safety
data for the oils in your blend and do a skin patch test prior to using.
This makes only a one-ounce quantity so that you can “try”
your body splash to see if you like it or want any changes to it before
making a larger quantity.
Air Freshener
An air freshener can be created that serves purely
an aromatic or a therapeutic purpose. See the Air
Freshener recipe within the Recipe
Box area for a base recipe that you can use for your custom blend.
Part 1: Introduction to Blending
Part 2: Aromatic Blending
Part 3: Formulating
Masculine/Earthy Blends
Part 4: Therapeutic
Blending
|
This article is authored, owned and under copyright by AromaWeb, LLC.
Do not plagiarize (reprint/paraphrase) AromaWeb's photos, graphics or other elements without express written permission. No exceptions will be permitted, and
violators will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law. For further
information or to seek written permission, click
here. If you have witnessed AromaWeb's text on other sites, please
report the infringement by using AromaWeb's Contact Form.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
